How to Select the Best Fabric for Your Custom Suit

Wool, linen, cotton, or a blend? The best may not be what you'd think.

Linen is the obvious choice for hot weather, but a light, open weave wool will also allow the air to pass through and still retain its shape.

So when you're selecting fabric for your custom suit, don't just go on how it looks. You'll get very different results with the same cut in different fabrics in terms of drape and how it holds its shape.

At Avanti Milano, choosing that fabric is the first step, before measurements begin. That could mean navy wool for weekly meetings or cream flannel for a winter wedding.

And depending on where you're going to wear it, you'll also have to factor in Austin's heat or Albuquerque's cold nights.

What Should You Consider When Selecting Custom Suit Fabric?

The right custom suit fabric is going to depend on how you're going to use the suit, the climate in your area, how comfortable you want to be, what look you're after and of course your budget.

Avanti Milano’s tailors help you decide with these choices, so you can see how each one affects the fabric you pick.

• Intended use and lifestyle come first. A suit you're going to wear to the office every day needs to be a suit that can handle repeated wear. A suit you'll save for weddings, on the other hand, can be a bit more delicate.

• Local climate and season will have an effect on the weight and breathability of the fabric. A lighter, more open weave works well in hot weather, while a heavier fabric may be more appropriate for colder months.

• Comfort and breathability partly depend on the fiber and the weave. An open weave will allow more air to pass through, and that can help you stay comfortable in hot weather.

• Desired drape and texture will have an effect on the final appearance. A smooth, structured fabric will look very sharp for business, while a softer textured fabric will have a more relaxed feel.

• Budget and long-term value matter when comparing fabrics, since a suit you wear regularly should hold up well without costing more than you need to spend.

5 Suit Fabrics and What Makes Each Different

Wool, merino wool, linen, wool/cashmere and wool/silk blends can all be used in custom suits but they don't feel or wear in the same way. Some hold their shape better; others offer unique softness, breathability, or sheen.

1. Wool is ideal for business meetings and formal occasions as it holds its shape. The naturally crimped fibres give it a good spring so it'll recover from creases quite well and your suit will remain smart after a long day's work.
2. Merino wool comes from Merino sheep and is generally softer than coarser wool due to the finer fibres. And Avanti Milano also have Super 120s+ wool available with the higher the number the finer the fibres.
3. Linen is one of the more breathable options, making it a good choice for outdoor summer events. The trade-off is that it wrinkles quickly because its fibers don’t spring back like wool.
4. Cashmere and wool blends combine cashmere’s softness with wool’s structure, making them worth considering for colder weather. For a winter custom suit, Avanti Milano’s charcoal cashmere blend from Loro Piana is one example.
5. Silk and wool blends can give your suit a certain sheen and drape, so they can be a good way to achieve a dressier look. If that's the finish you're after, Avanti Milano has a burgundy silk-and-wool blend from Ermenegildo Zegna.

How to Choose Suit Fabric for Different Seasons

Choosing suit fabric for the different seasons is all about the weight and the weave. Lightweight, open weave cloth is the fabric of choice for spring and summer. On the other hand, mid-weight wool is the fabric for the milder months and heavier fabrics are the ones you want for winter.

The following is a quick reference table covering all three seasons.

And Here’s a detailed overview of how to select suit fabric for each season.

Spring & summer (warm to hot weather)

Lightweight, breathable fabrics work well for spring and summer, including tropical wool, high-twist wool, linen, and cotton.

The wool (particularly the high twist wool which is made from yarn that's been tightly twisted) tends to resist creasing better than linen and so will keep your suit in decent shape after a long day in the Austin heat.

For comfort in that heat, the jacket’s lining matters too. Avanti Milano’s custom lining selection is worth exploring if you prefer a lighter lining.

Fall & cooler spring days

A mid-weight wool between 9 and 11 ounces offers warmth without the weight of heavier winter cloth.

That balance can work quite nicely in Albuquerque where the afternoons can be quite sunny and then turn quite chilly in the evening. A merino wool twill of that weight will also have a certain amount of texture due to the fine diagonal weave.

Winter & cold weather

For winter, heavier fabrics of around 12 ounces or more can provide extra warmth. Flannel, heavy wool twills, and wool-cashmere blends are good options that can still look polished at work.

Flannel stands out for its soft, often brushed surface, which helps trap warm air. If you like that feel, Avanti Milano offers a cream Super 120s flannel from Holland & Sherry.

Matching Custom Suit Fabric to the Occasion

Fabric choice for your bespoke/custom suit comes down to the dress code and how often you're going to wear it. A suit for the working week needs fabric that can handle the wear and tear, whereas a wedding or evening suit can be made from a much finer cloth.

• For business meetings and office wear smooth navy or charcoal Super 110s to 130s wool will give your suit a very sharp, very professional look. Avanti Milano's tailors can of course go through these fabrics with you in a 30 to 60 minute consultation at your office.

• For weddings and formal events, the season, the dress code, and your position on the day will all help to determine the fabric. A groom at a summer outdoor wedding might go for a lightweight wool or linen, whereas flannel would be a more suitable choice for a winter wedding. With the fabric, fittings,, and alterations to arrange, Avanti Milano advises booking your wedding consultation 4-6 months in advance.

• For evening events and galas where a suit is the required dress code you can look at the finer fabrics (wool/silk blend, midnight/navy Super 150s wool etc). These are more delicate fabrics and are better suited to occasional wear than daily office wear.

• For everyday professional use, rotating two or three mid-weight wool suits in navy, charcoal, and gray gives each one time to rest between wears. That break helps creases relax before you wear the suit again.

• Travel and the frequent wearing of suits call for a fabric which resists creasing and is comfortable in all weathers. Mid-weight… high-twist wool is a sensible choice because the high twist of the yarns helps resist creasing. A subtle check can also make small wrinkles less noticeable after a long flight.

Which Suit Fabric Weights and Weaves Suit Your Needs?

The right fabric weight and weave depend on your climate and your daily routine. As a rule, a mid-weight wool twill fits most needs… while lighter open weaves keep you cool and heavier brushed cloth keeps you warm.

The table below compares the three main fabric weights across six differences that matter to you.

How Fabric Texture and Patterns Influence Your Custom Suit's Appearance

Fabric texture and pattern will have a massive effect on how formal or casual your bespoke suit appears. A smooth fabric will give a cleaner look whereas a fabric with a very obvious weave or one with a more pronounced pattern will tend to make the same suit look considerably more relaxed.

• Smooth fabrics (fine wool twills in particular) give boardroom suits that clean, formal look. That same look is perfectly acceptable for black tie, though you're of course expected to wear a tuxedo rather than a suit.

• Textured fabrics (flannel, herringbone, hopsack) add character without the need for a strong pattern. A very subtle herringbone can be quite formal, whereas a more pronounced texture is ideal for a more relaxed office or for a weekend event.

• Patterned fabrics (pinstripes, windowpane checks, glen plaids etc.) can be quite formal or quite casual depending on the size and contrast of the pattern. Fine pinstripes are ideal for a business meeting, while a bold windowpane is much more characterful for a dinner out.

How to Balance Custom Suit Fabric Quality With Your Budget

If you're wearing the suit every week, durability is going to be a bigger consideration, and you'll want to spend more on it. If you're only ever going to wear it on special occasions, you may well prefer a softer, finer cloth.

Avanti Milano's made to measure suits start at $899 and bespoke suits at $2,600. Most of our clients spend somewhere in the $1,200 to $2,200 range (depending on the fabric and the construction). They also offer lifetime alterations to help with the fit as you change.

• Comparing fabric price points helps you understand what you’re paying for, from the fiber and mill to the weave and finish.

• Balancing softness and durability starts with how often you’ll wear the suit. Finer, more delicate fabrics may suit special occasions, while a frequently worn suit needs cloth that can handle regular use.

• Choosing versatile materials gives you more chances to wear the same suit. A navy mid-weight wool can work for meetings, weddings, and dinners, depending on the dress code.

• Maintenance costs have to be considered too. Linen will need more pressing to keep it looking neat and finer Super 150s wool will require a lot of care.

• Prioritizing frequently worn suits can bring down the cost per wear. A $1,200 suit worn 100 times costs $12 per wear, before maintenance.

What Does Super Number Mean When Choosing Suit Fabric?

A 'Super' number tells you how fine the wool fibers are. The higher the number, the finer the fibers. For example, a Super 150 is finer than a Super 100.

Still a larger number doesn't necessarily mean a better suit and here are the five ways that it will affect your choice.

• Fibre fineness increases in steps of 10 from the Super 80s to the Super 250s.

• Softness and feel improve as the fibres get thinner so a Super 130s will feel smoother against the skin than a Super 100s.

• Durability is the factor that favours lower counts as the thinner the fibres the more likely they are to pill, wear thin and show shine under the daily friction of use.

• Fabric weight is completely separate from the Super number so a Super 150s flannel and a Super 150s summer wool will have nothing in common in terms of feel.

• Intended wearing frequency settles it, with Super 100s to 130s for daily suits and Super 150s or higher for special occasions.

Book a Custom Suit Consultation With Avanti Milano to Find the Right Fabric

The right fabric for your bespoke suit is going to be very much dictated by how you’re going to wear it and the climate in which you live.

In Austin's heat, you may well go for high twist wool, while for an Albuquerque winter, you may go for Super 120s flannel.

At Avanti Milano, a master tailor helps you make that choice during a free 30-to-60-minute consultation, narrowing down 5,000+ European fabrics based on your lifestyle and budget.

Find Your Fit Among 5,000+ Fabrics. Book your appointment now!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q1. Is 100% wool better than a wool blend for a custom suit?
For a suit that you'll be wearing all the time, 100% wool is a very good proposition as it's breathable, it won't crease and it will last a long time if looked after. If you do however want a bit more warmth or a different feel, a wool blend may be the way to go. Cashmere for instance adds warmth and silk adds a bit of sheen for evening wear. Avanti Milano has both, so you can compare the feel for yourself.

Q2. Which suit fabric is the most durable for everyday wear?
For everyday wear, wool twill in the Super 100s to 120s range is a good place to start, though the Super number alone doesn’t determine durability. The diagonal weave can make minor surface marks less noticeable, while the fabric’s weight and finish also affect how well it holds up over time. When comparing Super 100s and Super 120s+ fabrics at Avanti Milano, ask the tailor about weight and finish rather than relying on the Super number alone.

Q3. Which suit fabric wrinkles the least during travel or long workdays?
High twist wool is one of the better fabrics in terms of resistance to wrinkles during travel or long days at the office. The high twist of the yarns in the fabric means it will spring back from the creases you get from sitting and from packing, particularly after you've hung the suit up. If you're going to be sitting a lot or packing for long periods of time, be sure to let Avanti Milano's tailors know when you're selecting your fabric.

Q4. What should I look for when comparing custom suit fabric samples?
Start with the fabric’s weight, weave, and Super number, then gently squeeze and release the sample to see how quickly the creases relax. That gives you a rough idea of wrinkle recovery, but a small swatch can’t tell you how the finished suit will hold up to daily wear. After checking how the fabric handles creases, you can use Avanti Milano’s AI Visualizer to preview how the swatch might look as a finished suit.